Bird in Flight Sample Video 1
Hi all. Please take a look at this video and let me know what you think of this as a teaching aid. Questions, comments, etc…
- Does this help you with questions on acquiring focus on birds in flight?
- How do you like the view through the camera? Or would you rather just see me on the screen talking about it?
- Would you like more discussion based videos or more videos like this where you can see exactly what my camera sees?
- Any other thoughts?
Thank you! – Matt
Very good advice that a lot of times we forget.
Got the course. I learned lots of good things. Everyone serious about learning about bird photography should get this course. Trying my best to get a sharp bird pic for the drawing. I have very cheap equipment. Hope I succeed before the end of the month.
Love the through the camera technique!
Also, your tip on focusing on something at an equivalent distance to a bird in flight to help the tracking mechanism kick-in is basic commonsense — and so simple makes me wonder why I do not do it more often — duh! Thank you for this great tip!
Matt, thank for the video. Your teaching style really works for me!
Can you explain your reasoning for the exposure compensation setting at -0.3? Thank you.
Hi Roger. I can’t. Other than I have a video monitor that I’m looking through so I can’t use the feedback on my EVF on the camera (zebras which is what I usually use). So it must of looked good on the screen or I missed changing a setting.
I do like the through the camera videos. I trust you will have a section on focus modes, and how to find similar ones on at least the major camera brands.
Hi Matt: I know you’re targeting a broader audience, but two things to consider (using the 200-600mm Sony as example)
1) Does the lens experience focus shift as you zoom?
2) Does the lens have a focus limiter switch?
Mike.
Thank you Matt
So much easier to grasp the concept when you can actually see it “though the lens”. Love this method of teaching and that you explain everything in plain easy to understand way.
Sherie
Hi Matt, this method of teaching is fantastic. I hope you find a way to utilize it for other genres too. Looking forward to the bird course.
Thanks for the videos. I found the high shutter settings helpful! Looking forward to the course!
On video 2 action, you briefly mentioned that you identified a bird as a bully, and that is so important-to take the time to watch the interaction and behaviors so you can pick a successful subject to focus on. As with wildlife, taking time before pressing the shutter will increase you chances of getting the action and behavior you want.
Also, when I started shooting, I chose shutter speeds that were way too slow-1/640-1/1000 and never dreamed of going up in the 2000 much less 1/3000 of a second because early instructors always stressed low ISO.
Love the thru the lens teaching method. I don’t know if you covered the various choices and focus points to use and how to quickly go from ground level shooting to sky,ie plus exposure and faster shutter speed.
Definitely like the video through the lens with voice over. Important to cover situations which arise in real life such as your pre-focusing on another object at a similar distance. It might be helpful to know what one is doing wrong when the camera does not actually acquire sharp focus on the bird despite trying to track it. How long does it take a camera to acquire sharp focus once tracking has begun? Can anything be done to ensure the camera focuses on the bird and not trees at a similar distance, especially if they are waving their branches in the wind?
The course sounds very interesting!
Just curious about the focus tracking! How do you achieve that?
Hi Simon. Thanks! Yes… use a smaller focus area. Start small and work your way larger if the situation allows. This is all covered in the course. Thanks!
Useful tips Matt. The view through camera is much better than just talking about what to do.
I use the zoom out to find my subjects and then zoom in procedure as well. I also try to keep both eyes open and the eye not looking through the viewfinder helps locate my subject so I can adjust where I point my camera.
If my camera was focused on something close and I need to focus on something far off in the sky, I will often manually focus my lens towards infinity as I’m pointing my camera towards the subject.
Might want to also talk about using cameras that have less focusing points. For instance, trying to shoot birds in flight with my 5D Mark II and a 70-200 with 2X extender is a real challenge. Much easier with my 80D. Should also get much easier once I buy an R5 or R6.
Thanks Ken. Curious… what do you do different when you have less focus points? Does it change your actual setup and shooting process. I know for the two cameras I have (small crop frame with less points), I don’t do anything different while shooting. It’s just that I end up with less keepers at the end of the shoot. But it sounds like you have some tips for it and you shoot differently which I hadn’t heard of. Thanks!
I very much appreciate the videos through your camera and your dialogue overlay. Two great tips for acquiring focus – which I have a hard time doing when the action starts!
Very informative using the camera to teach these methods. In another comment above they mentioned the focus mode to be discussed and I would also include the number of focus points and why you use the one you did .
Great explanation. I would also add information on utilizing focus limiting after your prefocus in the distance or where you expect the bird to be to prevent camera from focus hunting and missing the shot. I love the encouragement including showing the failures/errors everyone makes, and stressing that enjoyment of the journey in nature is a prime goal.
Diane
I thought in the camera focusing with video is definitely a way to instruct. Will be trying your ideas as my bird photography needs work.
I did like in the camera focusing as it is what has happened to me and I thought maybe I was doing it wrong. I will go out and try this now. I did appreciate your explanation. I do need help with setting the tracking part with BIF!
Well done, you hit on a couple of points that are critical to finding and keeping a flying bird in focus. My question is how to anticipate when a bird is going to fly close enough to you to get a decent image to crop?
Hi Matt,
As always you find a different teaching method that really works. Method is well explained with actual through the lens explanations which really help. Thankyou
Yes, the teaching approach of seeing through the camera helps me. Because it looks like what I actually see when going out to (try!) to get good bird pics in sanctuaries, SF baylands, etc.. I encounter the same issues you talk about. Seeing, visually thru the camera, how you deal with the same types of situations (as you narrate it) is useful. It feels as though I’m vicariously building brain muscle memory of what I need to remember to do (& will need to practice in real life for myself…).
I too like the “through the lens” teaching method; it’s very effective.
And you’re right; it’s all about the action. I’ve never been interested in taking photos of birds in flight but you’ve tweaked my interest in catching some action!
And yes, my Fuji XT2 is more than capable. Might have to get a lens extender though.
Yes, I really like the view through the camera, as others have said it shows you what you will actually (or should be seeing). Also, mentioning problems you may encounter/experience (like the camera not able to focus on subject initially) is very helpful.
The though-the-camera video technique was very effective, especially for those of us the learn fastest by visual demonstration. Of course your normal voice explanations are also most helpful. Involving more learning methods at the same time helps accelerate the thoroughness of the learning process. Now we know the technique we can practice realizing that shooting subjects in quick action is a skill set that even knowledgable and practiced photographers struggle in capturing.
As always great tips. In your Costa Rico course, there was not much wind, so the BIF was a pure test of how well could one capture them. Obviously within the jungle, the light is an issue and thus noise could become prominent. But your techniques of how to selectively get rid of noise is valuable.
To me the key is first get the camera focused on the bird within the designated focus area, shoot with auto ISO and use a shutter speed of 1/1000 at least.
Always easy to understand and right on point
I like the videos as it is good to hear your voice but for those of us who learn by seeing is extremely helpful. Seeing what the camera sees is an excellent way to learn and understand what is going on.
Nice teaching method. I also shoot BIF with Sony (A9 and A1). When I use Auto ISO and back button focus, the display stays at Auto until I half press the shutter. Then it briefly displays the tentative ISO. Against the sky , usually the addition of +1 to +1 â…“ Exposure Compensation suffices.
Am I missing a setting? Your ISO seemed to bounce between AUTO and an actual number, with everything else staying constant.
Hi Ken. Auto will display when you don’t press the shutter or focus button. When you do, you’ll see the actual ISO being used at that point in time.
True the camera is great. In addition to how you are acquiring focus, I would add in this particular topic the type of focus mode you are using and why.
Seeing through the viewfinder is a great way to understand what you are saying. I like this alot.
I like seeing this technique of seeing through the viewfinder as you talk. Very effective!
Useful the “through the camera” view. Not only for the stuff you’re talking about (acquiring focus and settings) but I find it very useful to see just how big the birds appear on the viewfinder and think about how much photos are cropped. I wonder how many people wonder (I know I would think this more in the past) how much a photo in particular of BIF is cropped from the original!
Hi Matt,
I had those issues often in the beginning of my BIF photographing so yes, put it in but you could shorten it down a bit compared to this example.
Very good piece is the stuff about the foreground poles, trees and stuff and how to do the settings about that. Saved me a lot of trouble. So by all means, put that in.
I think the though the camera videos are a really good idea – seeing it reinforces what you’re saying.