I gotta tell ya. One year ago I barely used Live View to manually focus on my camera. Today, I can’t live without it (Note: I’m mainly talking about photos taken while on a tripod). It’s one of those things that’s become so important when it comes to sharpness in my photos, that I’m amazed I did without it for so long. Basically, Live View let’s me zoom in (before I take the photo) on an area in the photo that I want to focus on, and use the focus ring on my lens to manually focus the camera so that area is perfectly tack sharp. I’ve definitely seen a difference in the sharpness of my photos since I’ve started using it.
Well, a few weeks ago I was on the Photo Tips and Tricks show on Kelby TV and I did a quick tip on how I focus while in Live View (a shortcut to the video is below – the tip starts at 3:30).
Not All Cameras Are the Same
First, before you watch the video clip below, understand that not all cameras are the same. In order for Live View to really help with focussing, you usually have to zoom in on the back of your screen, while in Live View, to focus on the critically sharp area (like maybe a rock or tree in the foreground, or a building or bridge in the background). I’ve found that Live View on some Canon cameras I’ve seen is very crisp. Even when you zoom in. On my Nikon D800… well… not so much. It’s kind of pixelated. I’ve been testing out a Sony Alpha 99 camera the past week, and I’ve got to say – it’s Live View feature is amazing. Even zoomed in, it’s like looking at an high definition version of the photo.
So… not all cameras give you the same exact quality of image in Live View. But the tip below, should help out regardless. With a little bit of practice (and that’s the key here by the way), I think you’ll find you can nail the focus in your photos more consistently than you can with auto focus.
Have a good one!
NOTE: My tip starts at 3:30 if you want to jump straight to it.
Matt, have you tried using a 7″ video monitor with your Nikon instead of the live view screen?
ATG says, DO NOT buy Sony because they CAN NOT do tethered Live-view once you have connected to a computer.
I am talking to be able to control all camera settings from the computer vs beginners using a monitor to claim being true functional live-view or using Adobe Lightroom.
Matt, I always enjoy your suggestions and blogs. This one though has a fundamental flaw. In order to focus manually using live view one must have sharp enough vision to see the 3.2inch screen on my d800 clearly enough to focus better than the camera does itself. Unfortunately even with my reading glasses the camera is better than me at it. It sucks getting older.
As a side note I did recently send my 24-120mm lens to Nikon to have the auto-focus re-aligned so at least I could tell that much. It did make a big difference. Apparently life of a landscape photographer can knock the lens off kilter as it gets banged around it backpacks no matter how careful.
I’m struggling with this, too. Carrying around a giant magnifying glass will be awkward. Blind photographers have additional challenges. Getting old stinks. Lol
Seagull! There are lots of tools video shooters use because they have to use manual focus lenses. The Seagull is a great cheap option. Some use a 7″ video monitor with a hood, and there are some electronic liveview type viewfinders. I, like you, have old eyes but have a collection of older zeiss manual focus lenses. Using a Seagull and zooming in on the live view screen works great in many circumstances.
Hey Glenn and Ginny! Buy A Canon!!!! 🙂 Oh, Glenn just fyi. Have you looked into Lens Align? I used it on my three lens and what a difference it made! it simple to use and setting it up can take a few minutes, but the results are amazing. It’s made my Michael Tapes. http://michaeltapesdesign.com/. However, you have to have a camera that can make micro adjustments.
Dennis
Dennis, No reason to buy a Canon and no need for alignment gizmos. My point was my Nikon D4, D800, and D600 all focus themselves with their and my Nikkor lens auto focus systems extremely sharply without my help. I can’t make it any sharper even with my reading glasses on. I don’t have a sharpness issue…at least one I can see:-)
Unless you’re shooting with manual focus lenses…
I use a Seagull magnifier on my liveview screen. It has a diaopter, glass lens, and works quite well.
Matt, in the video you said that sometimes people complained the live-view is dark. I don’t know about Nikon camera, but on Canon camera, you can turn off the option called “Exposure Stimulation”, so regardless of your shot setting, the live-view is always bright and clear (in some situation camera will use ISO 104k to keep it bright, you’ll see some noise). Also, if you decide to view the exposure stimulated image in LV before taking the shot, just hold the DOF Preview button down. It’s the best of both world and you don’t have to mess around with your settings especially in critical situation.
Matt, in the video you said that sometimes people complained the live-view is dark. I don’t know about Nikon camera, but on Canon camera, you can turn off the option called “Exposure Stimulation”, so regardless of your shot setting, the live-view is always bright and clear (in some situation camera will use ISO 104k to keep it bright, you’ll see some noise). Also, if you decide to view the exposure stimulated image in LV before taking the shot, just hold the DOF Preview button down. It’s the best of both world and you don’t have to mess around with your settings especially in critical situation.
Hey Matt! Great tip – I use it all the time. Have you seen the new Mindshift Gear outdoor camera bags by the same crowd that run Thinktank? I know you and the guys at Kelby love Thinktank bags so was intrigued to know if you have seen this bag in the flesh or even had the chance to test it? Looks like a great concept, but keen see how well it works in the field. It is anything like the main Thinktank brand then it should be great.
It’s great for sharpness throughout a large landscape. Take 3 shots; 1 that focuses the background tack sharp; a 2nd that focuses the middle ground tack sharp; and a 3rd that focuses the foreground tack sharp. Then blend the 3 shots in either Photoshop or Helicon Focus; voila, it is tack sharp throughout.
As an old guy, I still have the black cloth from the view camera days. Works great in live view. Hoodman loupe is handy too, but nothing beats the black focusing cloth. Using the cloth frees up hands that would be holding the loupe. And if you forget your jacket on your hike, you can always drape it over your shoulders. At night, live view lets me find things in the scene to focus on that I couldn’t see in the view finder. I use it in product shots too, focusing wide open on a point of interest before stopping down. Don’t have a view camera, try a cheap black table cloth for a card table.
Haha, I love this tip. I will add my cheap black table cloth to my camera bag
Great tip! It’s almost the only way I can focus on the foreground in a night photography situation. Thanks Matt!
Hi Matt,
I love this method! I told you the other day I used it, and WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!! I have a Canon 7D and did not see any pixalation. One thing that you didn’t mention in the Video, which I knew I should do, was change the lens from auto to manual. Some folks might not know that. Anyway … Like you I love this method! Thanks for pointing it out!
Dennis
Very interesting – I was trying to use it while “on the move”, so that might explain why it wasn’t working well for me. Do you ever need to use a shade or hood to see the screen when in sunlight?
When it is on in video mode, I have no control over it so have to focus it manually which is hard.
Thank you for the explanation. I hate finding later that my focus was off just enough to ruin a shot. This may help
Thank you! Watching the video soon