I’ve got a few more tips for you this week and some samples from my upcoming bird photography course. While so many of you requested bird in flight tutorials, I think you’ll actually grow out of just “bird in sky” photos and want more action.
In this video, you’ll see a morning out shooting with me and some situations I ran in to.
Feedback Please
Just like the last video (Click here to see it), I’d love your feedback on this as I put the finishing touches on the course. Knowing that I would have already covered exposure, auto focus, settings, etc… what other questions come up and do you find this useful (and why). Thanks!
I love teaching and photography... In that order. I feel that enjoying photography, and photo editing can get WAY too complicated. So my personal mission (and favorite thing to do), is to create education that simplifies the process of taking great photos, and how to edit them to get the results you’ve always wanted.
Great video. You convey information so clearly.
As a general matter, you might consider discussing (1) the importance of knowing your camera so that you can readily change settings when something changes about the bird being shot, and (2) knowing your camera’s buffer so that you can maximize the chance of getting meaningful pictures.
Outstanding pair of videos, Matt. You have an excellent teaching style – especially because you talk TO us and not ABOVE us! You make the concepts very understandable and in a way we can easily employ ourselves. The videos do a great job of helping us and I thank you for providing them,\.
The rant was so spot on. Come on now folks – do you want Matt to take the picture for you?!?!? The idea is to listen, learn, absorb, apply and re-try. The modify (if necessary) and repeat. And repeat.
Keep up the outstanding service you provide to us, Matt. Great, great job!
Good video. I’ve been photographing birds for years and I think what a lot of people don’t understand is that it is a game of averages. You wait a LOT. You shoot a LOT. You maybe get a couple of good shots out of a whole day sometimes. Some days are a complete bust… the wind won’t cooperate, the light won’t cooperate and, or the birds won’t cooperate. You increase your chances just by being out there as often as possible and being prepared when you go. Make sure your memory cards are formatted. Make sure your batteries are charged. Get out there and then just wait. There are also different styles. My wife likes to sit in one position and wait for something to happen. I prefer to move around and see what I can find. Of course this all depends on the site. People tend to think you just walk out to the beach or into the woods and the birds fly by and you point and shoot. On an average day of shooting, if subjects present themselves, between my wife and I, we probably start with about 1500 photos taken. Some days we get 50 good photos out of that. Some days we get one. Some days we get nothing. Again, the law of averages. I think many people underestimate the power of your vehicle as a blind. Birds are mostly used to seeing cars. We do a LOT of photography from our vehicle at wildlife preserves that feature auto tour routes. I would guess that our ratio of good photos increases. You have a stable platform (if you turn off the ignition) and birds (mostly) ignore your movements inside the vehicle if try to keep them slow and to a minimum. Yes, sometimes your range of view and range of motion are constrained but that is also the case in any other blind I’ve used. Sorry, I didn’t mean to tag on to your mini rant but any wildlife photography done properly, safely and ethically takes work ad a willingness to spend a lot of time just to possible get a few good photos. I love the video though. I’ll be looking to buy the course. There’s always something new to learn from other photographers.
This second video (and especially the rant) was excellent. I am looking forward to your new course. I love the “through the frame” shots. Your rant will hopefully get me out again. (I have been going through some tough times).
Yes, Yes, Yes, you hit it out of the park with this one. I have learned all these the hard way over the last 15+ years. Practice, time, and patience will get the pictures you hope for. I am happy if I have 5 keepers out of a 100 to 200 captures. Take care, thanks!!!!
Wonderful video! Feel like we all need to hear your “rant”. Your lessons are fantastic! I would echo the comments above about having section(s) on some small song birds. In Ohio we have more opportunities for the smaller birds.
Looking forward to the release of the course.
I thought everything was clearly demonstrated. The technique looks easy enough for anyone to try. It just require putting in the time to get comfortable with it.
One more tip (this applies to binoculars as well) is if the camera is not to your eye when you see something, do NOT look down to your camera or you’ll lose your target. Keep your eye on the bird and bring the camera up to your eye. Okay, one more. If you don’t live at/near the beach and you want to practice, find a busy road and shoot cars, or bicycles. It’s digital. You can delete them all without even looking at it. You’re practicing your form.
Mike.
I have issues with bird photography so this was really good for me. I think the through the camera is great. I do better when I can see how something is actually done. Thank you
Thank you for the video. I have seen the ‘flashing array of boxes’ before but never knew when to use. Thanks.
You were using a tripod. I have a tripod and I am very clumsy with it. Thanks again.
Hi Daryl. I am MUCH better and more accurate handheld. But I have a video recorder on my camera and the weight is prohibitive to hand hold and keep steady so that you wouldn’t get sick watching the video 🙂
Darryl: The flashing boxes are focus tracking. Depending on your camera you may have to enable this.
Also, if you’re going to use a long lens with a tripod, you really need to consider a gimbal head. There are a number of different ones, but they all do basically the same thing.
Mike
Really great once again! It’s so helpful to see your shutter speed as high as it is and how you grab a fabulous shot from a messy interaction! Thanks
Hi Matt, I just loved this short video as it’s so accurate in the trials of getting birds in flight, especially the patience it takes to succeed. As I am considering changing to Sony could you please let me know what body you used in this shoot. I noticed the movement of the focus points were restricted to the marked area within the frame and that is my pet hate with my Nikon D850. I do feel a bit better because the area in the nikon is more than the area in the body you used. Does the Aplha 1 have the same restricted focus point area within the frame? Look forward to more of your posts.
Hi Matt, Your vids are (almost)the only ones I watch right through. I’m pretty experienced but always see something astonishing and new in your presentations.
The only comment I would make is ….keep up the rant ! It’s good to have the simple things emphasised and repeated,to downplay the importance of gear and, especially with wildlife/nature, home in on patience, knowledge of habitats and behaviour and (a bit too often in my case) luck.
People should remember also, the harder you work the luckier you get.
Thanks for sharing your great insights Michael
Hi Grace. I’m using the Sony A1. You can see all of my gear by clicking the GEAR link in the top menu of this page. Most newer mirrorless cameras have AF points that extend out to the edges of the frame – in this case, I’m not using that wide of an area because it’s also prone to focussing on things I don’t want to I restricted the area to something smaller. But in general, your newer mirrorless cameras will have far more coverage in AF points than a DSLR will. Hope that helps. Thanks!
Hey Matt,
Just wanted to say that I really appreciate that you give of you talent, time and knowledge to share with those of us who are looking to achieve something more from our photography. You are sharing your expertise with people of all levels and degrees of knowledge. I love that you take that into consideration in your lessons and videos. This lesson helps the beginner as well as someone who is a little more advanced. I think that some comments made by certain individuals fail to realize that. I have taken lessons that were so far advanced that I gained little to nothing from them and it ended up being a waste of time. I also give you kudos for your response to your grammar teacher…lol This is a laid back environment as you stated and your speech is in no way annoying or offensive. It sounded like he was just trying to be helpful but it was uncalled for in this setting. In regard to the small bird photos I also would like to learn more on that but I really love the videos that you share on the larger birds as well. Oh, and thank you for the wind tip. I was getting so many butt shots and I could not for the life of me figure out why. If you ever do make a video on how to capture the smaller faster bird I would love to see it and hear your advice. You are amazing and I truly love the way in which you cover and share your information. Keep up the fantastic work.
Excellent video, and I couldn’t agree more with your comments about um’s and ah’s. Your presentation style is conversational, and that’s exactly why I like it so much (not to mention the exceptional content!).
When people first start taking pictures (not necessarily “photography”), especially landscapes and portraits, they tend to see in the viewfinder only what drew them to take the shot, not all of the other stuff. So they wind up with the mountain, or stream, or person (their subject) very small. Long ago, I remember telling myself often to “fill the frame.” In other words, make your subject large in the frame. 40 years later, I don’t consciously think about filling the frame, but I do think about removing everything that doesn’t support what I’m trying to say with the shot. Which I suppose is just another approach to the same result.
When I first started bird photography 7 years ago, I was always trying to fill the frame with the bird – to get the highest quality image. That makes bird photography SO much more difficult. It took me a long time to accept the fact that getting the bird somewhere inside the frame was far more important that filling it with the bird. Zooming back, allowing some space for the bird to make quick random movements and still capture the shot, was hard for me. Sometimes it still is.
In bird photography, cropping is your friend. Get used to it. Expect it. Embrace it. Any your percentage of keepers will go up dramatically.
Hey Matt, I just love the video. It really helps to see ” through the eyes of the photographer”. The tips included were spot on. Based on this snippet I think your course will find great success in teaching your students BIF photography.
Thanks, Matt. I will definitely be trying your tips.
Hi Matt,
I agree with Shawn, seeing that everything does not go perfectly is important, especially to new to bird shooting folks. I like the narrative describing your thought process; it helps students develop their own way of thinking about various shots. Also, the topic of cropping is spot on as many published pictures may have been cropped to eliminate distractions, etc.
One suggestion is to show a few shots taken with a shorter lens, zoom or otherwise, since many new to the “sport” of capturing birds may have a 70-200 or 28-300, etc. and then show that with good focus you can still crop a “shorter” lens to get an excellent shot; especially if they are using a high pixel count camera.
I encourage you to keep up the personal, relaxed presentation style. It helps the student to relax and focus on the material rather than on you. Letting your excitement or pleasure show through when a serendipitous event occurs is cool and let’s the watcher know that even a seasoned pro can’t plan for everything and to always be ready to press the shutter release.
Cheers,
Bob
Wonderful tips on using the focus Matt. AND, THANKS for your RANT. So well said and very appropriate!!!
I’m so pleased I get to be a part of this group. I’m learning lots from your videos, of course. Lots from the comments above, and even from your ‘rant.’ LOL I struggle with the need to upgrade my equipment, even though I know mine is very good. A voice inside my head tells me I need better. I don’t! I need to invest time and effort, not dollars. This fall my plans are to make the jump from Elements to Photoshop, so I”m starting with your basic Lightroom/PS videos to get off on the right foot. Thanks!
With all due respect …
In Toastmasters (a club to practice public speaking), there is someone in the audience who’s role is to count “ums”, “ahs”, “you know’s”, etc. The purpose of this “Ah-Counter” is to note any overused words or filler sounds used as a crutch by anyone who speaks during the meeting. Words may be inappropriate interjections, such as and, well, but, so and you know. Sounds may be ah, um or er.
I might suggest that you watch your “ums” and “ahs”, as you tend to overuse them. So just be aware. And in the place of those sounds or filler words, just pause while you gather your thoughts. It’s okay to be silent for a beat or two. It’s much preferable for the listener to hear a brief pause, then repeated “ums” and “ahs”.
Quick tip Jon… my parents taught me this a long time ago. Whenever you start something by saying/writing “with all due respect”… you should always reconsider what you’re about to say/write. Trust me… it’ll never go over how you think it’ll go over. Just… ummmm… sayin’! 😉
I do disagree with you obviously. I stopped going to Toastmasters meetings years ago and have embraced my ahs and ums. Mainly because they concentrated on these things and most groups have lost touch with the one thing that makes presentations great – compelling content. Is this a speech I’d give to a Fortune 500 Executive Board if I were trying to present something formally? Of course not! I would rehearse and practice much more, rather than here, where I turned on my camera and just winged it. But I (and most of my audience) knows that among some imperfections in my speaking, I will always deliver great, understandable, real, and compelling content. And for me, that’s what I’ll spend my time on.
Ever heard the ‘Man in the arena’ quote from Theodore Roosevelt? “It’s not the critic who counts…..The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena…”.
Great video, Matt, has and ups included.
Thanks Roger! I’ve always personally liked “speak softly and carry a big stick”
Before watching your two course-preview videos I would never have given any thought to bird photography… now I am really looking forward to it. Can’t wait for the release – when do you anticipate being able to do that? Do you wear waterproofs for sitting on the sand or do you just drive home uncomfortably?
Hi. Zvi. the course will be out this Thursday (September 16th). I usually put a towel down. I can’t say I always remember one and something I just get sand on me. I drive a jeep though so it’s meant to be sandy 😉
As with the last request for comments, I think the videos illustrating what you are doing and how the camera is tracking focus are very illustrative and helpful.
As I am sure you are aware, Manual Exposure mode with Auto ISO is highly recommended by other BIF photographers (such as Steve Perry). The videos allow you to see in real time how changes to shutter speed or aperture impact ISO.
As others have stated, your comments that to capture good shots, particularly good action shots, you need to understand (1) something about bird behavior (wind in face butt in face, the poop sequence, etc.), (2) your position relative to the sun and the wind, and (3) how to use your camera should all be included. Sports photographers always say that to capture good action shots you need to understand the sport you are shooting so that you can anticipate what is going to happen, position yourself relative to where the action will occur, and correctly position yourself relative to the sun to have good light.
Finally, the message to practice, practice, practice is also very important.
Love these in camera videos for teaching purposes. You are definitely on to something here and I think they will enhance your course for all participants. I don’t really do much bird photography but on occasions when there’s been birds around, I now know why I’m so bad at it 😉 but thanks to you I now have some solid tips to give it a go and maybe get a good shot or two. Thanks 🙂
Hi Matt,
Very interesting video. A lot of what you talked about I do. I enjoy shooting ducks and I use a 9 point focus.
I’ve had good luck with this on ducks in flight. I have never tried the tracking mode on my D810.
I taught my brother to use the 9 point and he has had good luck with it.
Keep the videos coming.
Matt, once again, this was so helpful. I’ve asked bird photographers for tips and they are so vague! Great about “sun trumps all” and “wind in face is butts in face”. Especially helpful to see the bird fights (or mating??) and how you turned that into a great cropped shot. I honestly would have ignored that for being too cluttered, so it was great to see what you got! And I am always trying to get 3+ birds in the frame for a “story”, so glad to learn I’m wasting my time (I have zero good results, but thought it was my fault). And great to hear everyone gets cropped wings and such. And liked the focus with them way, then go in close. And good to hear you were on a tripod, even with lots of sun! Definitely buying the course!
At least from my perspective, this video was on point and very helpful. Your manner of teaching is always good. The best part was the rant! It’s not the equipment. In fact there are a couple of photographer blogs that I have followed for years. I quit watching them because they started discussing the merits of their equipment. I don’t need that; my camera does not know there is better equipment out there. The instruction of HOW to get the shot is what is helpful. I have shot birds for years with thousands of blurry shots to show for my effort. This short sample told me a couple of things I have been doing wrong all this time. Thanks for sharing and wanting to listen to my opinion.
Excellent rant
Keeping AF simple by just using the continuous focus with group selection is a great learning tool which avoids the bewildering variables associated with AF Tracking Modes. I really appreciate your “Keep It Simple” teaching style! I look forward to seeing the your entire BIF Course.
These comments are for both of your BIF videos. I believe the videos taken through the lens will enhance your course considerably. The clips in the second video are better than the first because they show shooting scenarios where you can actually get good shots. There were not any clips in the first video where you would have had a keeper so they were not inspiring. Showing the still after a clip reinforces that your technique works. I shoot all types of BIF photos and the techniques have to be tweaked for different species and body types. So far you have shown all large shore birds in flight. They are the easiest since they are large and don’t move that fast. You should show other types of birds like birds of prey from eagles fishing to small falcons, song birds, kingfishers, and swallows if you can capture them. They all present different challenges in how you catch them in flight including speed differences, flight patterns, and backgrounds. You need to keep going back out until you have captured the videos and the stills that will really make your course stand out. You also need to properly identify the birds in your videos – it increases your credibility as a birder.
Keep making great courses and videos.
Video looks great. Was wondering if the BIF course is suitable for kids? I have an 11 year old grandson shooting with an older Nikon, but he can also use my Nikon 3600. We have a wonderful area – Bombay Hook National Wildlife refuge, with lots of shorebirds. If the course is too old for him, do you have courses for kids? (or maybe you need to consider it) The kid has a pretty good eye for portraits and has taken good photos of other kids. I’m trying to help him branch out.
Hi Debi. That’s hard to say. I guess it depends on his level to understand what I’m talking about. When my son’s were 11… probably not because they simply didn’t care. But I’ve met kids that understand things far beyond their years. It is NOT a beginner photography course though so I assume a certain understanding and proficiency with your camera. Basic camera and photography concepts won’t be explained. Hope that helps! PS: There’s always a 30 day refund too! 🙂
All of the above with the comments, but specifically on how you are showing us what you see through the lens with the ISO, shutter speed etc. — INVALUABLE. I particularly like the use of the pen with the arrows to highlight the specific changes you are making and why. This really sets your teaching apart from the standard.
Hi Matt, I really enjoy your tutorials. The tips you gave in this one were excellent. I think the key takeaway was it takes time and practice.
Thanks for the great tips as always Matt. I love your teaching style. im just getting started with bird photography so I need all the help I can get.
Hey Matt,
Thank you for these previews with really good tips. I have been practicing BIF, and am so happy you suggested zone or Wide area. For some reason I thought flexible spot was going to get more sharpness. I also am glad you reminded me to focus on something with more contrast if I couldn’t get the lens to focus on the small figure in a vast sky. I forget that and wonder why the camera won’t focus. I agree with practice and getting to know the bird’s habits. We have lots of egrets here on the west coast too so I am now becoming very aware of subtle moves they make before they take off. I am looking forward to watching your full video. Are you btw going to mention motion blur at all. I will be photographing large flocks of cranes and snow geese this winter in New Mexico, and have seen some beautiful special affects done with motion blur. Thanks, Matt, you have been so instructional and easy to understand not to mention encouraging .
Hi Matt,
Thanks for the video introducing your upcoming BIF Course. I have always enjoyed you way of teaching because I can follow it easily. I’m looking forward to signing up for BIF ASAP. I found it interesting when you said all DSLR’s have the same focus settings as your Sony. I have a Nikon D500 that I usually have set to single point with continuous focus when shooting BIF. Will changing to Group Focus allow my focus area to automatically track the subject?? If so, this tip will be a game changer for me!
Hi Matt,
I just watched the video on bird photography. Ok,,, looks fine,, your tips will be great for those who are novices and not trying to make huge enlargements of birds. However, I have been a pro who specializes in bird photography, my marketable images are very large. I recommend using continuous auto focus, but single point, the point put on the bird’s eye. This way I ensure the eye is tack sharp. To me, if the eye isn’t in focus, you might as well throw away the image. I know this is next to impossible while the bird is in flight, but along with practice…. patience and perseverance must prevail. It takes years,,, believe me.
Here is a link to the article I wrote for Outdoor Photographer on High key/Low Key bird photography:
https://www.outdoorphotographer.com/tips-techniques/wildlife-techniques/high-key-and-low-key-light-for-wildlife/#.Xxn0gHy2kZw.gmail
Hi Janice. It will… but you know the best way to answer your question? Practice! Try it out. Then you’ll find out for sure. But yes, that is exactly what it’s meant for 🙂 Thanks!
Thanks for the reply Matt.
Hi Matt,
I like these last two videos more because of the way you and your teaching comes across. I have a ton of your video courses but these last two makes you seem “like one of us, the learner”, more approachable perhaps. There was excitement in your voice , making me excited. The fact that you too are learning and asking suggestions from the viewers makes you come across more as a friend wanting to help us rather than “the instructor figure“. I love the through the lens teaching which has been so helpful. I love your last tip in the video. It seems to work well with kid sports too. I can’t wait for the course to come to fruition.
I was surprised how high your shutter speeds were so high. e.g., 1/4000. That’s what I used to freeze hummingbird wings. i usually use around 1/2000. for bird shots, but I’ll check it out anyway.
Excellent! So appreciate your teaching style. Showing that all photographers face the same obstacles to get “the shot”. You make clear how to give ourselves the best chance—what tools we have available and how to use them. Thank you.
The tip is really great because it tells what focusing mode gives the most success. You hit close to what is really important in the photography. I find going with the flow and having the mechanical skills to relax and make your best attempts at that special moment is one of mind clearing relaxing moments I have. To have a moment of serenity during the rush of the possibility of an incredible shot is so worth the attempt. The beauty of the course will be all the little mechanics that keep you
from thinking about the camera while you are in the rush of acquiring that shot. Just like fishing the prize is wonderful but the time acquiring the prize is the true treasure. Hope the course is loaded with mechanics that will keep us from thinking while we shoot. It looks to be an incredibly useful course.
The teaching technique you are using showing us what you see through the camera and what you are thinking is a fantastic way for us to learn. I’m looking forward to your new course and am confident it will help me and others improve our BIF photography…..along with practice, practice, practice.
I agree with this. As a novice these things make all the difference. I wd add that using the pen to show arrows and to highlight changes you are making is very effective in the learning process.
Another great video thanks Matt! The hands on method of teaching is excellent. Good to hear your rant too – in the end it’s not about the gear but about practise, practise, practise!
I hope some part of your mini-rant is in the final video. About 40 years ago I had the opportunity to visit with a National Geographic photographer and I think the most valuable lesson I learned was that no one takes only fabulous photos. He asked me how many photos I thought he would have to take for a typical 8 to 10 photo article. I said maybe 50 to which he replied, “how about 5,000.” His point was that it is experience, not the type of equipment used, that counts.
As to the content of the video, I’ll admit to thinking that my 17 year old Canon EOS 20D won’t have all the bells and whistles I might need, but the techniques you’ve shown, along with a lot of practice, will help me overcome whatever technical deficits my camera may have.
Thanks for this. I look forward to your finished course.
I’m agree with Mike. Said just right. Keep up the good work Matt. Thanks.
Hi Matt:
I have watched you and followed your photography progress for around 15years. Your best skill is that you are a teacher first and photographer next. Your goal is to make your followers better. I admire that quality in the teachers who taughrt me. You belong in that category
As you have embarked in a new type of photography i.e. bird photography , You have conquered the Holy Grail of flight and action photography. To complete your skills you’ll need to some time to learn smaller members of the bird world. Birds like the ruddy turn-stone, which you called “that little bird” in this tutorial.Photographing small birds are just as challanging as any eagle or snowy egret you’ll see! Improvement is just time and a bird field guide will help.
Thanks for all your tutorials I’m looking for the next 1
I sure agree with you. Matt is great. In fact Matt should come with us on a trip to Guatemala when Covid settles down. Matt if you see this…..
I think the thing I liked most of the instruction part of the video was the missed shots. The comment about 1 good photo I think maybe should be emphasized BIF photos. Expectations cause many people to give up. In other types of photography people expect a photos most of the times when they go out to take photos. Coming home with 1 or 2 or no photos is normal to start for BIF and people give up instead of see that as a success. The techniques are good. I expected something more in the first about expectations for time spent.
As a WL/bird photographer, I appreciated most all of the points you were emphasizing including the need for deliberate practice, subject study, scouting, commonality of failures, yields etc. One should not become discouraged and I’ve been on plenty of outings where we spied little more than the sweat on our brows. I think an easy analogy you would appreciate is that of golf. One can’t expect to be good at golf without practice and much of the zen of the game is enjoying being outside, with friends, and appreciating the beauty all around. Missing a shot, having the wrong exposure, or having a battery die is no different than duffing a putt, hitting into a bunker, or losing a ball in the rough. In other words the journey is more important than the destination.
Matt, I’m about to move from Louisiana to Boise, ID within the month. Presently using a7R3 with sony 100-400 and 1.4 TC when needed. I plan to order an a-1 when we move. How much benefit would I get adding the 200-600? I plan to be doing a lot of bird photography as my son (who has been in Boise for 18 years) is a raptor biologist and has been mapping hawks and eagle nests most of that time. I have also shipped my 22 foot bay boat there so will have water access with a Minn Kota Ulterra trolling motor which has the anchor feature to hold boat in place while I shoot. Will your new course have anything specific go the a-1 or stay fairly generic? Do you still like yours?
Great video and narration.
I think you should include in your instructions lessons learned from failure…
Did I understand that your memory card ran out ?!?
It’s probably worth repeating to us amateurs to always remember to take extra cards and charged batteries out on shoots.
Thanks again for sharing.
Great info and technique, Matt! Your relaxed style, including pitfalls and errors is very relatable, and is very encouraging. [I’ll be heading out in the AM for some practice!] Thanks for sharing.
Matt thanks again for some great tips! The area i am in, i don’t have the birds you have but will try on Hawks, vultures,small birds. but excited to see what i can get.. Thanks again Matt
I enjoy your casual, natural delivery of any topics you discuss. The presentation technique for these videos is different and easy to follow. Thank you for allowing us to review and comment
I am surrounded by birds in the area I live in and I have shied away from taking photos (unless they are pelicans as they are easier to catch) but even with your tips so far it has made me more confident. Looking forward to your course. Thanks Matt.
Practice, practice, practice, realize you are going to miss a lot of shots, hold the shutter down, take a lot of images, have the fastest card in the camera and know that the pros shoot a lot of images and cull a lot of images to let you see only their best. I like your approach to teaching birds in flight because there is no magic bullet. To get better you should understand the behavior of the species you are photographing, what they are doing at the time; ie, nesting, breeding, feeding, etc. This dictates their behavior and with that knowledge you can anticipate the action. As you said it is not just about the gear, there is a lot more to understand. As a friend told me: “you have to fail to succeed.”
Hi, Matt!
I just discovered your page by the Topaz Labs tips.
I really love this video and tips!
Thank you so much for sharing it with us!
yep, learn, practice, adjust. While some photography may require certain gear to get a certain type of image your video focuses on how to do better with what ever you have. I did bird photos with a 70-200 for ages, i now have a 100-400, yes i would like a 200-600 but can not justify the spend or afford it,. i do use my x2 on my 100-400 sometimes which has it’s own set of issues and limitations to deal with, but i adapted and learnt what ia can capture and what i can not, or when i may have to crop later.
I use Lock on auto focus (on my Sony A7R3) for sport a lot, but found it very hand for getting birds in flight is it followed them well against a sky or forest background.
No matter who’s video you watch you need to take that info and adjust it to your situation. Gear is not the most important thing, but understanding your gear and what it can and can not do along with method, is important
Thank you for another great and informative video. And your mini rant is right on the money. I don’t have top level gear, but I am gradually getting better bird photos as I learn more and practice more. For me, bird photography is more an excuse to get out, enjoy nature and challenge myself. I find it really takes my mind off my job (I am a teacher and it tends to be an all consuming occupation). Most of my shots are not good, but every now and again I get one I am proud of. I am looking forward to your course.
Hey Matt – I’ve been photographing birds for quite a few years and the reality is out of 300 images you will be lucky to end up with 30 good shots and 3 great shots. But if it was easy what would the sense of accomplishment be? I enjoy your encouragement and enthusiasm for the topic – Thank you.
Thanks Cathy. I wish out of 300 I ended up with 30 good ones. More like 3 good and if I’m really luck 1 great shot (which is rare) 🙂
I think the big take away is what you have already said and I’ve learned from you is; no matter the gear you have, get familiar with it and Practice, Practice, Practice. Results will come. Getting very familiar and comfortable with the camera was one of the best lessons I have learned from you. Thanks again
Another great job Matt. I think it’s great to include the “misses” when the action edges out of the frame because it happens to all of us that shoot birds or other animals. It will help folks to know they are not alone. Several people commented on researching and getting to know the subjects you are going to shoot. That is great advice, but I would add that spending time observing your subjects yourself is invaluable. Go multiple times to a location and while shooting (or even set the camera aside for a bit) pay attention to the birds behavior. You will start to pick up the little cues they give before they take-off, dive for a fish, charge another bird to chase them off, etc. The more you learn these cues through observation, the better you will be able to anticipate when something is about to go down and your chances of capturing it go way up.
I was interested to see that your tracking points didn’t hop around to track other moving birds as they came into proximity with each other. On my camera(s) that happens all the time…. So, it would be interesting to hear how to prevent that & ensure the tracking points cluster stays with the ‘target’ bird. Also, for those of us who are fans of compositing and who might want to combine several bird/bird action shots into a single, post-processed image (for instance, the various stages of a bird taking off or landing)… what are the implications of using Auto-ISO? Won’t we have issues with mismatched sky colors even if shooting in the same vicinity? How do we adjust our camera’s settings if wanting to do that sort of capture sequence for composite making? That would be value-add info to me as part of a course on a topic of this ilk.
Hi. For most AF systems unless you let up on the shutter and press again, it should stay on the target. I do talk about AF settings in the course that cause this amount of time to be longer or shorter though.
As for compositing images, Auto ISO ensures you have the same exposure regardless so that would actually help you composite rather than you eyeballing it and having various bright or dark photos. But you can over ride it if you want. Thanks
Great, helpful video. I like the fact you mentioned how long you waited to capture a few good action shots, and also that gear isn’t the priority. With practice, patience, knowing your camera and if possible traits/habits of the birds you are photoghing will all help with capturing that shot. Love the ‘in-camera’ video and showing/telling us things you missed. Speaking of the failures/mistakes I think is very important. It reminds us that all photographers struggle and have to dedicate a lot of time just to get those few good shots…that’s why it’s so rewarding when you finally get a good one, and the challenge to get it makes you keep persevering.
Great video Matt…obviously patience plays a role in getting the opportunity for good results….if not today hopefully
the next time!
Some great ideas it is going to be a great class. It comes down to question what is the best camera and lens to use, it’s the one you have with you. Keep the tips coming.
Hey Matt, really like the way you are teaching in these videos feels like we are right their with you on location and talking side by side each other. This was very educational and appreciate the invite to watch and comment. Thanks for the rant too as this puts pay to any excuse other than practice makes perfect rather than equipment drawbacks. Have a great weekend and thanks again.
A checklist and order for bird and animal photographs (and other kinds)
Learn as much as you can about what you want to photograph.
Know your camera.
Practice, practice, practice and be patient.
Get tips from books, online, or courses.
Practice, practice, practice and be patient.
When you can no longer get the photos you want with your current equipment, think about upgrading.
Great video with tips that are 100% correct plus practice, practice, practice. The results will follow.
Very well said!
Really looking forward to your course, I think you presented perfectly a few novel points for me in these 2 videos.
Great tips Matt, I will be using them next winter and spring.
Thanks, not a bird photographer, but you point about 3 1/2 hours of waiting and 1/2 hour of opportunity really struck home. Also you demo’d it. Plus, the key about understanding bird behaviour (wind in face, butt in face) was a great point. Most of us, just go out and shoot, we need to stop and observe and learn predictive behavior.
Matt, your video does a great job showing how to capture action shots. We read about it and talk about it but the video shows really shows how observation, patience and practice leads to some great action shots. Looking forward to the complete course.
Dear Matt,
I’m looking for information on Lightroom for black and white photos. Do you have a program I can purchase with tutorials.
Hi Anne. I do not have anything specifically on black and white. Thanks!
Excellent tutorial and loved the encouragement. Spot on! Thanks!
Hi Matt – I’ve been doing bird photography for awhile and I learned quite a few things in these 2 videos. I think you’re right on the mark for the training you’re developing – being in the field and showing the how & why. Stressing the need to practice, practice, when to change settings, observe & learn how to anticipate action and to be patient. You have such a nice, personable way of teaching. It’s going to be a great course!
Hi, I’m really looking forward to this since I’ve just started seriously shooting birds. Question: I have a Sony a1 and am wondering what is the minimum shooting speed for (1) birds in flight (2) birds active on ground. Thanks
Have you covered exposure compensation before this video?
Hi Roy. Yes in the course it is covered before we ever get to the birds in flight shooting part. Thanks.
I love the fact you are teaching Through your lens an have suggestions on the birds behavior. The fact it’s aimed at all cameras is good however a mention of any setting that could be used for more advanced shooting later could be worthwhile
Matt, I love your technique and your desire to make a great teaching video!
Please keep in mind birding ethics for the video so that people respect their space and avoid putting unnecessary stress on them. Specially shorebirds which many of them are suffering population decline.
Matt I really enjoyed your honesty that you incorporate in your teaching as well sharing your thought process as you make changes in your settings. No what if here but I believe you have a winner with this course.
Your mini videos always inspire me to go out shooting. I, too, would love to learn how to get hummingbirds in flight and I also wondered were you taking 4K or 8K video to get the single frames out?
Matt, great tutorial. I love the fact that you show the positives as well as the misses. Do you ever use the crop mode on a full frame camera to get a little closer to the Bird?
Jack
Hi Jack. I don’t. It’s the same exact thing as shooting it non-crop-mode and cropping in post. Absolutely ZERO different so I’d just rather shoot it this way and crop later if needed. The only time I’d shoot in Crop mode is if I wasn’t going to do editing (which I always am) 🙂
Hi Matt,
Yes, shooting in crop mode gives the same result as cropping in post. However, logistically, crop mode has some advantages. Depending on the camera, crop mode files can be significantly smaller than full size shots. Using crop mode, we won’t fill our buffers or cards as quickly.
If I know that I’m going to be cropping the shots a lot, crop mode is the ticket. In this case of your video, you actually filled your buffer and cards. That could be the perfect time for crop mode.
Thanks Frank. To each their own. I was asked my opinion and for me I wouldn’t use it but everything works different for everyone. Glad to see you have a use for it.
Hello Matt.
A few things, I suppose. Possibly, or perhaps probably, things you are already aware of, and planned for, but just in case.
I suggest that you discuss the highlight / whites issues involved with shooting white birds. It is so easy to blow them out when you are also shooting darker birds. Say, when shooting a Mallard and then shooting a Snowy Egret.
Don’t throw away the whole “Wind in Face means Bird Butts”. Cover it in enough detail that your students understand the value of both the sun and wind at your back.
Perhaps mention that there are apps to plan for the sun location and apps for the wind direction. Being a Zootographer I always like to suggest that shooting at a Zoo or Wildlife Park, or even a small town lake, offers the best opportunity to be able to plan for a sunny day with both wind and sun at your back.
However, also mention that when practicing panning, planning for the wind at your right or your left allows for the best opportunities for birds flying past you.
As for the focus issue addressed in this video, suggest that they attempt to estimate approximately where a bird might appear. Not just the shore. Perhaps focus on a tree at about the right distance.
Suggest that they sit and watch the behavior for a while. And while practicing, just assume that it will take several tries. Different days will provide different opportunities. Once you have a pretty good bead on what the birds might do, the better chance you have at pre-focusing.
Once last thing. I suggest starting with the larger birds. Ducks, geese, cormorants, and one of my favorites, coots. (Us old coots are often partial to that one.) 😉
Perhaps you will speak to this in your final video, but if you have tracking available in your camera, I thought that should be focus setting for getting these shots so I was surprised at your tip about using the wide focus points. Second while this information is applicable to birds it seems logical the same can possibly be incorporated into aviation photography as well or am I wrong?
Hi. I’m personally not a fan of the “tracking” modes. Even if you don’t use a “tracking” option (which is typically more meant for video), your camera will still hold focus and track a target in your other modes (no matter the brand). And yes, if you can shoot a little bird, you can photograph ANYTHING!
Very helpful information. I have never used the video setting on my camera. I’m not clear on that. Is that what you are using?
Hi Matt. Just a comment on shutter speed vs. apparent bird activity. Often times when perched birds are singing or eating there can be enough movement in the face and head to cause a bit a blur in the head and neck area. So even though I will, like you, also cheat down my shutter speed to save ISO when birds are not moving a lot, I will keep the shutter speed higher if they are actively singing their little hearts out.
Hi John. Yes this is true and covered in depth in my course. Thanks!
Hi Matt,
Great tute. Using Live video to explain this BIF technique is essential. Thanks for that.
This is opening up a huge genre of bird photos for me.
I knew about these features, but never knew how to execute them.
You made it look easy and now I’m going to do more BIF photography from now on. Thank You, Joe
Go BUCs !!!
Wooo hooo!
Do you have plans to include tips/techniques on shooting (photographically, of course) smaller birds I.e. cardinals, finch, hummingbirds? For me, learning to capture a hummingbird in flight displaying its speed and combative nature took years of practice, practice practice- and ALOT of patience. When taking photos of larger BIF, I had to adjust my perspective and field of view to capture action on a larger scale. All the basic camera techniques are the same but the approach is different.
Thanks for sharing your video. Very useful tips. I live on the Gulf Coast, and am fortunate to be in an area with lots of shorebirds, and am also on the spring/fall migratory flight path. Getting great action shots of birds takes lots of patience and practice, but getting that “oh, wow” shot makes it all worth it. I’ve learned so much about various birds through my photography, besides the fun of photographing them.
Matt,
I do a lot of bird photography and like action the most. Although I miss a lot of shots not only can action shots be rewarding it also is a lot of fun.
Your videos make me feel as if I’m with you taking images. (I know…don’t I wish!) In addition to the mechanics of taking the pictures, I like you sharing your mind-set while you take them. I appreciate your comments. (You have to be patient. Not all of your images will be perfect. You have to practice.)
I think you have a best seller on your hands!!
Good luck.
Very nice!
Point taken at the end… this is not a “what if” comment. Just curious about your production technique. Do you shoot video continuously and extract still images from the video? Or perhaps your camera allows you to shoot stills while also shooting video? If it’s the latter, can you somehow indicate on your published video the points when you take a still shot? I think that would be a nice addition.
Also, what exposure mode allows you to adjust both shutter and aperture, and have the other one compensate? Perhaps you are switching from shutter priority to aperture priority (forgive my Nikon jargon)?
Finally, I **really** like that you include so much “failure” time in your videos. It’s real easy to assume that the “pros” get great shots all the time, but your video dispels that misconception, and I think that’s a good thing. Kudos.
OUTSTANDING! I guess I better start saving my money, this looks like this is going to be a no-brainer, must picture workshop. Keep some of the failures in it, so we all can feel great about continuing to practice until we get it right.
As in the first video none of the tips and techniques are new. They’ve been around a long time.
A lot is made about bird behaviour being a prelude to some action occurring. They can be indicative that something MIGHT happen but In my experience there’s plenty of action without these behaviours occurring so you have to be ready to catch the action 100% of the time.
Plenty will say that birds take off into the wind. There’s many an occasion when that doesn’t happen. A bird will take off in the direction that suits it’s needs at the time. Often there is no warning. There are other behavioural suggestions put forward like head bobbing or lowering the head significantly. You could see those things happening for several minutes but nothing happens. Then when everything looks to have settled down the bird is off with no prior indication. Only by being alert all of the time will the shot be successful.
A lot of very good tips and most of all, your “rant” is very reassuring. Thanks Matt
Patience and good common sense, that usually comes with experience.
I do a lot of bird photography at a near by Wildlife refuge. I have been using a Canon 7D Mark II with a Tamron 150-600mm G2 lens for years and I have gotten some awesome shots. You are right Matt, you don’t need the latest and greatest camera to get birds in flight.
Really helpful video, and I think your “rant” about gear is spot on. Looking forward to the course.
I’ve been unable to get out to bird and take photos lately so I greatly enjoyed going along with you via your in camera video. I like the focus on how to capture bird behavior and action. Thank you. Good tips and reminders here about signals to look for to capture take off, fighting, and finding a good position from which to view the action – favoring the light over the wind direction. I am hoping to get out there again soon – fall migrations are underway in the Boston area.
Do you have plans to include tips/techniques on shooting (photographically, of course) smaller birds I.e. cardinals, finch, hummingbirds? For me, learning to capture a hummingbird in flight displaying its speed and combative nature took years of practice, practice practice- and ALOT of patience. When taking photos of larger BIF, I had to adjust my perspective and field of view to capture action on a larger scale. All the basic camera techniques are the same but the approach is different.
I am jealous of you, because we don’t have the pink spoonbills out here… Other than that, I liked your fragments very much!Comment, as in the second fragment: maybe pay some attention to fast focusing by you using the ring in the M/A setting? I use that when the tele is far out of focus….
What’s funny is that unless they’re in a certain position in flight, with wings spread out and light on them, I think they’re a very ugly bird. They’re just a harsh and mean looking bird in my opinion so I rarely take photos of them 🙂 As for manually focussing… for me that is never a faster or better option personally.
Matt,
I like the looking at video via the lens.
The best thing in the video that I liked was things don’t always go perfectly (bird goes out of frame, missed the action, etc). A lot of videos showeverything works out perfectly all the time. They don’t show the struggles people will have in the field.
Thanks Shawn! Hope all is well!
Matt,
I think what you showed via this video is superb! I have read a number of articles by bird photographers and they all say that in order to acquire good photographs of birds, you have to understand bird behavior. You showed examples of this (the poop sequence, the wind in your face – birds taking off, etc.) during the video. I think this is excellent and I am sure there will be other nuggets throughout the course.
Is there a best way to be able to quickly change the aperture to increase the ISO? Is it a “Quick Menu,” button reassignment, etc.?
Other than that, I think you are solidly on the right track!
Thanks Jeff. If you’re in Manual Exposure mode, and you use Auto ISO, when you adjust aperture it will adjust ISO automatically. If you increase your F-stop number you will allow less light in, which means the camera will adjust Auto ISO to go higher to compensate. Hope that helps.
I’m really looking forward to this course and since I’m new to the Sony camera, learning more about the auto focus system. Thanks for your honesty.