I went back to an old photo of a luggage room in an old English heritage house that a judge told me was too busy. So i used you tutorial to change it
Unfortunately I can not post he 2 images from here so I guess Ill do it your FB page
At 3:45 in the video, when you went into Erase Mode, I had the thought, “instead of erasing, why not adjust the brush’s Flow property from 100% down to, say, 10%, right before shift-clicking the 2nd point, to get a similar gradation of that property, i.e. fading out?” Well, in my Lightroom (Classic CC v8.2), that doesn’t work.
Here are results from my experimenting in Lightroom with changes to several of the brush properties between the 1st click and the 2nd (shift) click:
Size: smooth gradation along the line from the start point’s value to the end point’s value, as brilliantly demonstrated by your video
Feather: constant value along the line of the line’s *end* point
Flow: constant value along the line of the line’s *end* point
Auto Mask: on if either the line’s start point has it on *OR* the line’s end point has it on, else off
Density: constant value of line’s *start* point
side note: I saw a rare pause (for my computer system) of several seconds as Lightroom really had to think hard about how to correctly “draw” an adjustment brush line with AutoMask on
Great tip, but I found it doe work best on a darker backgrounf as the exposure slider is not quite long enough for brighter areas 🙂
Also, why use the brackets to expand.contract the brush size? I always use the scroll wheel on my mouse (or tablet pen until it died)
I do get a bit frustrated that LR allows the sliders to be moved with the scroll wheel and then when you go over to PS CC or any other application I forget – and it’s back to moving the whole mouse/cursor.
I use an iMac with a trackpad… No scroll wheel. Plus I don’t believe it works on a Mac. It may, but I’ve never had a scrollwheel so I can’t say for sure.
You didn’t do a darn thing that I didn’t try many years ago under an enlarger, spending hours in the darkroom dodging, burning and tedious masking in one form or the other – some with a bit of success, most miserable failures. It was all engaging, frustrating and fun. Your techniques, on the other hand, accomplished what I tried a long time ago so much easier, faster and provided a greater fidelity to the photograph than most anything I ever attempted ‘the hard way’. I’m of the opinion that these techniques enhance the image but do not replace elements, so editorially speaking they remain true to the subject. I’ll accept that it is creative and artistic to a point. However, the image elements were not replaced, such as editing out a chair, blemish, a tree, or adding such enhancements as a mountain or clouds. In other words, and to the grumpy purist, there isn’t anything in this post that photographers haven’t tried since the introduction of silver halide. I gave up my darkroom and donated all my equipment to a local university migrating to Photoshop early on. I haven’t looked back. Even with years of using the software, I didn’t even think of changing the brush size. It just goes to show we can all learn something new. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Another nifty tip, Matt! I didn’t know you can adjust the brush size while drawing a line. You should definitely include this video in your “No Light, No Problem” course!
I doubt it – I don’t think anyone “creates” a Brush tool that is supposed to do this. I think it’s just a by product of the way Adobe does it, but not necessarily a feature they intended for when they programmed it.
Okay, this is really very cool! And, I like creative stuff! I will definitely use this technique. It is much better than brushing and brushing and brushing!
Hi Sandra – it doesn’t work in ON1. However if you’re a LR/ACR user, you shouldn’t be doing these kind of edits in ON1 anyway. It would be more for special effects. Thanks!
I had an “Oh, WOW!” moment with just the Lightroom example. I also use PS and On1. But I really thought that this awesome light treatment seemed to be more what I would use in LR. But, that said, thanks for showing how to do it in the other two softwares. I agree that each image is different. So sometimes what works well in one, does, not always work well and you have to try other software options.
Again, THANKS for this awesome tip. I actually fits right into some PP work that I am doing right now.
Carl, I support the experience behind your comment, but think it is interesting how an earlier post talked about doing this while developing photos (pre-Adobe!)
I used this technique to shine a sunbeam on a friend’s grandmother sitting in a chair, as the last ‘home’ photo of her before she died.
I set it up as part of the memorial service, and the tearful reaction of the family makes a strong argument for the use of such a tool. Cheers
Great tip. I tried it on a ocean photo and had some strange effects. The photo is basically a horizontal photo with the horizon line across the center. I placed a cursor in the top right and clicked. Then move and enlarged the brush to the lower left and clicked. The ray expanded… but when it got to the horizon it bent to right angles to the horizon and then continued to the second point. Too bad I could not post a photo with this comment. Worked fine on other photos
Love this!!! Looks familiar though……is this the same way to get a straight line when cloning? While in spot rem?oval, click one end of area and shift click other end to clone out a straight line, as in a pole?
Matt, I love your film clip tutorials but wonder how I can download them for future reference. The short lessons make so much sense to me when viewing them; but, when I want to try them out on a photo at a later date, I find I can’t remember how to do them. Is there a way to download and save?
Thanks for your many instructions. They convinced me to subscribe to Lightroom and Photoshop and I have not been sorry I did so.
I just save them to a folder in my mail labeled “Lightroom” or Photoshop”. My problem is all of them just say “Matt K just uploaded a video …” I have tried to rename them but I just flag them and scroll down until I find one that is relevant to my current situation. I agree, there is so much information and if you don’t use it daily – you lose it so the references are great.
So, Dear Matt … A title to the videos would help immensely!
My bad! I just looked at my folders and it appears the ones sent from YouTube get to me a day before Matt puts one out to my email. The ones in my email have titles – the ones on YouTube do not. So, oops on my! I will watch the YouTube and then wait for the email ones as those have the title. Oh well … just happy to get them! They are so helpful.
You can download them , pause the video and right on it, copy the URL and paste into a video copy program [I find Clip Grab great], it will ask where to save them, so save to whatever folder you want to.
Hi Cecile – they’re on youtube and not meant to be downloaded. You could always start a spreadsheet with a description column and a link column and refer back to that. Good luck!
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Matt, now that we do not have the adjustment brush, how can we do this now?
Paul
Hi Paul. The adjustment brush is still there and this still work just like always. Maybe watch this video if you missed the update to brushes/gradients: https://mattk.com/the-biggest-change-to-lightroom-ever/
Learned something new
Cool! Thanks.
Hi Matt, Appreciate this and all the tutorials very much.
Great and easy tip! Thank you, Matt!
Hi Matt, Found I wasn’t able to click and move the Light Ray around like you did? LR6.14
I am using a Mac and LR 7.5, but cannot figure out how to “shift-click”. I also use a tablet but have a mouse handy?
Hi. Hold the shift key down, and click with the mouse. Or hold shift down, and tap with the pen on the tablet.
How can one adjust the ray of light near the point of creation (small end) to hide that origin a bit? Well, if one can?
Hi Michael – did you watch the video all the way through? It shows how to do just that by erasing. Thanks!
I went back to an old photo of a luggage room in an old English heritage house that a judge told me was too busy. So i used you tutorial to change it
Unfortunately I can not post he 2 images from here so I guess Ill do it your FB page
Hi Matt, nice technique that I love to use, but it doesn’t work on my LR version 5.7.
Is this version to old perhaps ?
Thx in advance !
Great tip. Thanks, Matt!
Which lightroom is used can i use it in mobile if i can send me link
If i can use phothshop in mobile send me link
Great tip on using this feature. I must try Photoshop sometime
At 3:45 in the video, when you went into Erase Mode, I had the thought, “instead of erasing, why not adjust the brush’s Flow property from 100% down to, say, 10%, right before shift-clicking the 2nd point, to get a similar gradation of that property, i.e. fading out?” Well, in my Lightroom (Classic CC v8.2), that doesn’t work.
Here are results from my experimenting in Lightroom with changes to several of the brush properties between the 1st click and the 2nd (shift) click:
Size: smooth gradation along the line from the start point’s value to the end point’s value, as brilliantly demonstrated by your video
Feather: constant value along the line of the line’s *end* point
Flow: constant value along the line of the line’s *end* point
Auto Mask: on if either the line’s start point has it on *OR* the line’s end point has it on, else off
Density: constant value of line’s *start* point
side note: I saw a rare pause (for my computer system) of several seconds as Lightroom really had to think hard about how to correctly “draw” an adjustment brush line with AutoMask on
Matt Just fabulous. Quick and easy to follow demo. And an elegant solution.
Matt,
I love this tip. Thank you so much for sharing.
Great tip Matt.
Nice technique, but it doesn’t work on my LR version 5.7 …
How comes ?
Not sure about that one. LR5 is about 6 years old so it’s not something I can go back to and check. Time to upgrade 🙂
Excellent – I really enjoyed the video and concept. Thanks, Matt.
Really interesting technique.
I love it…Thanks so much
This was great thank you.
Great tip Matt, as always. Can’t get enough.
Great tip, but I found it doe work best on a darker backgrounf as the exposure slider is not quite long enough for brighter areas 🙂
Also, why use the brackets to expand.contract the brush size? I always use the scroll wheel on my mouse (or tablet pen until it died)
I do get a bit frustrated that LR allows the sliders to be moved with the scroll wheel and then when you go over to PS CC or any other application I forget – and it’s back to moving the whole mouse/cursor.
I use an iMac with a trackpad… No scroll wheel. Plus I don’t believe it works on a Mac. It may, but I’ve never had a scrollwheel so I can’t say for sure.
You didn’t do a darn thing that I didn’t try many years ago under an enlarger, spending hours in the darkroom dodging, burning and tedious masking in one form or the other – some with a bit of success, most miserable failures. It was all engaging, frustrating and fun. Your techniques, on the other hand, accomplished what I tried a long time ago so much easier, faster and provided a greater fidelity to the photograph than most anything I ever attempted ‘the hard way’. I’m of the opinion that these techniques enhance the image but do not replace elements, so editorially speaking they remain true to the subject. I’ll accept that it is creative and artistic to a point. However, the image elements were not replaced, such as editing out a chair, blemish, a tree, or adding such enhancements as a mountain or clouds. In other words, and to the grumpy purist, there isn’t anything in this post that photographers haven’t tried since the introduction of silver halide. I gave up my darkroom and donated all my equipment to a local university migrating to Photoshop early on. I haven’t looked back. Even with years of using the software, I didn’t even think of changing the brush size. It just goes to show we can all learn something new. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
ah, a disadvantage of Macs 🙂 I will occasionally eat one though. 😉
oh my, it sure works on a Mac.
Nice, handy and useful type. Thank you
Matt
Another fantastic tip. I could not believe how realistic a ray of light you can create. Can’t wait to try it out.
Another nifty tip, Matt! I didn’t know you can adjust the brush size while drawing a line. You should definitely include this video in your “No Light, No Problem” course!
Thanks Carl. I’ll be working on Volume 2 soon so it may make it in 🙂
What fun! Thanks so much for this really useful creative tip.
Thanks .
There are many ways to make light beams, but maybe not quite as easy as this tip. Thanks for sharing.
Great tip.. thanks..
The fact that there are gaps in the On1 light stream… is that a bug in On1?
I doubt it – I don’t think anyone “creates” a Brush tool that is supposed to do this. I think it’s just a by product of the way Adobe does it, but not necessarily a feature they intended for when they programmed it.
Great as always Matt.
Very cool technique! Thanks for sharing!
Great! Simple and time-saving.
Okay, this is really very cool! And, I like creative stuff! I will definitely use this technique. It is much better than brushing and brushing and brushing!
Love the Tip! just one question is there a way to move the points around in On1 and ACR like you can in Lightroom, couldn’t find a way to do it!
Re: Moving points around to position ,
Ok found it does work in ACR, but still can’t find a way in ON1
Hi Sandra – it doesn’t work in ON1. However if you’re a LR/ACR user, you shouldn’t be doing these kind of edits in ON1 anyway. It would be more for special effects. Thanks!
Great Tip. Can’t wait to try it. Looking forward to more.
Great tip and presented in a way that is easy to understand. Thanks
Very Nice tip, thank you
Great job!!
Great Tip. Thanks Matt……
I had an “Oh, WOW!” moment with just the Lightroom example. I also use PS and On1. But I really thought that this awesome light treatment seemed to be more what I would use in LR. But, that said, thanks for showing how to do it in the other two softwares. I agree that each image is different. So sometimes what works well in one, does, not always work well and you have to try other software options.
Again, THANKS for this awesome tip. I actually fits right into some PP work that I am doing right now.
This was great! I remember seeing this once and forgot about the technique. Thanks!
What has become of pure photography when there is Photoshop to ruin it all!! (sorry, I had to do that!! ??)
Great tip!!! ❤️
Carl, I support the experience behind your comment, but think it is interesting how an earlier post talked about doing this while developing photos (pre-Adobe!)
I used this technique to shine a sunbeam on a friend’s grandmother sitting in a chair, as the last ‘home’ photo of her before she died.
I set it up as part of the memorial service, and the tearful reaction of the family makes a strong argument for the use of such a tool. Cheers
What a great thing to know..thanks very much
Love this tip!
Great tip. I tried it on a ocean photo and had some strange effects. The photo is basically a horizontal photo with the horizon line across the center. I placed a cursor in the top right and clicked. Then move and enlarged the brush to the lower left and clicked. The ray expanded… but when it got to the horizon it bent to right angles to the horizon and then continued to the second point. Too bad I could not post a photo with this comment. Worked fine on other photos
aha – the difraction effect of light passing through the air water interface?
Matt, thanks for this new technique to add rays of light. Good process in order not to use a sun rays brush in photoshop.
Great tip, and one that I will use!!
Love this!!! Looks familiar though……is this the same way to get a straight line when cloning? While in spot rem?oval, click one end of area and shift click other end to clone out a straight line, as in a pole?
Hi Debbie – it should be the same with any brush in LR and PS. You could always give it a try to see if it works 🙂
Nice tip, thanks a lot !
Clever, Thanks Matt, I’ll be able to use this with “Spring” coming up!
Matt, I love your film clip tutorials but wonder how I can download them for future reference. The short lessons make so much sense to me when viewing them; but, when I want to try them out on a photo at a later date, I find I can’t remember how to do them. Is there a way to download and save?
Thanks for your many instructions. They convinced me to subscribe to Lightroom and Photoshop and I have not been sorry I did so.
I just save them to a folder in my mail labeled “Lightroom” or Photoshop”. My problem is all of them just say “Matt K just uploaded a video …” I have tried to rename them but I just flag them and scroll down until I find one that is relevant to my current situation. I agree, there is so much information and if you don’t use it daily – you lose it so the references are great.
So, Dear Matt … A title to the videos would help immensely!
My bad! I just looked at my folders and it appears the ones sent from YouTube get to me a day before Matt puts one out to my email. The ones in my email have titles – the ones on YouTube do not. So, oops on my! I will watch the YouTube and then wait for the email ones as those have the title. Oh well … just happy to get them! They are so helpful.
You can download them , pause the video and right on it, copy the URL and paste into a video copy program [I find Clip Grab great], it will ask where to save them, so save to whatever folder you want to.
Hi Cecile – they’re on youtube and not meant to be downloaded. You could always start a spreadsheet with a description column and a link column and refer back to that. Good luck!
That’s a great tip Matt. A spreadsheet would be very helpful and you could make the title anything that makes sense to you. Thanks.
Loved the course you did on this technique!!
Loved the video can’t wait to try it.
As Always Matt you are right on top of things in the post processing world. Keep the videos comming.